(4WD)

Picturesque waterways, magnificent beaches and rugged mountains make for a magical drive along the coast road to Cooktown. Allow 5-6 hours from Cairns to enjoy the scenery. Distance approximately 234km (4WD only).

From Cairns follow the Captain Cook Highway past Port Douglas, Mossman and on to the Daintree River – a stunning coastal drive. It is 105km from Cairns to the Daintree Ferry and 51km from Port Douglas.

The road is sealed from the Daintree Ferry, which operates 6am to midnight, 7 days per week, to Cape Tribulation (38kms). Just north of the Alexandra Range and ferry is the Daintree Discovery Centre, with interpretive boardwalks, Aerial Walkway and Canopy Tower, allowing visitors the rainforest experience at every level. This is a spectacular drive through the World Heritage listed Daintree area, one of the largest rainforest wilderness areas in Australia with many beautiful rest stops including Cow Bay and Thornton Beach.

At Cape Tribulation take a walk along the ultimate tropical beach, ‘where rainforest meets the reef’, or explore the rainforest on the Dubuji boardwalk. “I named the north point Cape Tribulation because here began all our troubles” wrote Lt. James Cook in 1770 after his ship, the HM Bark Endeavour, foundered on a reef.

Emmagen Creek is a popular picnic spot and a great photo stop. After South Cowie Beach you will come to a river crossing at Woobadda Creek. Take care in crossing the Cowie and Donovan Ranges as there are steep descents. 4WD is essential beyond Emmagen Creek and the route often closes during the wet season.

The famous Bloomfield Track takes travellers on an amazing journey to the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal and villages of Ayton, Rossville and rural Helenvale to Cooktown. Stop for a cold drink and take time to visit the wonderful new Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre open Monday-Friday.

Bloomfield Falls

At Wujal Wujal turn left after the causeway and drive to the Bloomfield Falls car park, then a 500m walk to the falls. The falls are especially spectacular after the wet season.

Swimming is not advised due to the possibility of crocodiles in the Bloomfield River below the falls and Aboriginal cultural concerns. Local Aboriginal tours with the Walker family offer a great appreciation of the area.

You can also reach Wujal Wujal Falls from the coastal route between Cooktown and the Daintree. Turn off just south of Wujal Wujal Community.

The Mungumby Valley

The Mungumby Valley, set on the edge of Black Mountain, Cedar Bay and Ngual Bulal National Parks, is a great spot for bird watchers and nature seekers. Mungumby Lodge offers resort style accommodation, a licensed restaurant/bar and private nature reserve. There are several walking trails into the mountainous National Park area behind the lodge.

Lions Den

Built in 1875, the historic Lions Den Hotel is the perfect place on the Bloomfield Track to drop in for a cold drink and a meal, and enjoy camping and safe swimming in the pristine waters of the little Annan River.

The signatures that adorn the wall of the Lions Den stem from an early tradition when some miners began leaving their pay packets at the public house, writing how much money they had spent, or still had, up on the wall.

There is a private airstrip at Helenvale.

Rossville

South of Helenvale lies Rossville, offering a natural wonderland to explore with its secret swimming spots, amazing diversity of wildlife, and a great bushwalk to Home Rule Falls.

Rossville Markets

A short scenic drive south of the historic Lion’s Den Hotel, the small rainforest community of Rossville holds their community market the second Saturday of the month, showcasing interesting local products and tasty fruit and vegetables.

Wallaby Creek Festival

Described as ‘The Best Little Festival in Australia’ this is a celebration of music and arts in the rainforest, and takes place each September during School holidays (see page 77).

Cedar Bay National Park

The remote and beautiful Cedar Bay National Park is of great conservation importance. Its mountainous hinterland, almost entirely covered in dense tropical rainforest, is fringed by sandy beaches and coral reefs.

The park is only accessible by boat or on foot, and is for experienced bushwalkers only. The bush track (difficult) is 17km one way and takes 6-8 hours. The walk begins at Home Rule Rainforest Lodge, who can supply walkers with detailed advice, and it is possible to camp overnight at the beach. For boat charters to/from Ayton/Cedar Bay call 07 4060 8252.

Weary Bay

Weary Bay is an open, 9km long bay at the mouth of the Bloomfield River, where you’ll often find the locals wetting a line, and beautiful Weary Bay Beach is an ideal spot for a long stroll or a leisurely lunch. Access is via Weary Bay Road.

Why not extend your rainforest coast visit with an enjoyable stay at Haley’s Camping & Cabins, where you’ll find budget cabins and safari tent accommodation, plenty of grassy areas for camping, a fully equipped camp kitchen and a licensed restaurant.

Black Cockatoo Gallery

Stunning wildlife art by world renowned artist Ross Franzi is showcased in the Black Cockatoo Gallery. Ross hand-built his gallery and café within twenty five lush acres of this Bloomfield paradise. The gallery is located just off the Bloomfield Road, 12km north of the Wujal Wujal community.

Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre

A professional gallery space offers visitors a taste of what Wujal Wujal Aboriginal artists have to offer, while a beehive of pottery, printmaking, jewellery and other arts workshop areas showcase the artists at work – a fantastic opportunity to get to know each individual as they put their creativity in motion. As a facility that promotes and supports artists and cultural development in the region, you won’t be disappointed with this neat package of arts and cultural learning.

Stop and have a tasty lunch at the on-site café and enjoy the beauty of Wujal Wujal. Open Mon-Fri from 9am till 4pm, free admission.

Ayton

In 1819 Lieutenant Phillip Parker King, aboard the HMS Mermaid, named the Bloomfield River after Lieutenant Bloomfield of the HM 48th regiment. The life of the Kuku Yalanji people, the original inhabitants of the area, was to change with the arrival of the German, Fredrick Bauer, in 1882 who established the Vilele sugar cane plantation in the Weary Bay area.

Bauer formed the Bloomfield Sugar Co, built a mill and a narrow gauge railway line from the mill to the old Ayton wharf.

Ayton, named after the English seaside town where Captain Cook grew up, now became a thriving community with English, Italian, Chinese, Japanese workers as well as the Kuku Yalanji people. However the costs of business were prohibitive and the sugar failed. The mill was sold in 1897 and moved to Bundaberg.

In the 1890s, harvesting of red cedar had begun to replace sugar as the major industry.

A saw mill was established and red cedar, silky oak and black bean was shipped daily to meet the demand for building in the mining town of Charters Towers.